Return-Path: Received: from UNH.CS.CMU.EDU by A.CS.CMU.EDU; 23 Jun 86 08:53:11 EDT Date: Mon, 23 Jun 86 08:53:39 EDT From: Derek.Beatty@UNH.CS.CMU.EDU To: bovik@UNH.CS.CMU.EDU Received: from IUS2.CS.CMU.EDU by UNH.CS.CMU.EDU; 21 Apr 86 10:11:50 EST Date: 21 Apr 1986 10:09-EST From: Jon.Webb@IUS2.CS.CMU.EDU To: Derek.Beatty@UNH.CS.CMU.EDU Subject: Re: windshield sealing Message-Id: <514480149/webb@IUS2.CS.CMU.EDU> In-Reply-To: Derek.Beatty's bboard message of 21-Apr-86 10:04 I think you have to take out the windshield and replace the rubber gasket around the edge. It's a difficult job, requiring great care not to break the windshield. Jim Driscoll did this on his car. I think you may want to take your car to a commercial place that does this, and pay them the exorbitant fee they will charge to do this. -- J Received: from FARADAY.ECE.CMU.EDU by UNH.CS.CMU.EDU; 21 Apr 86 12:12:48 EST Received: by faraday.ECE.CMU.EDU (4.12/4.7) id ; Mon, 21 Apr 86 12:04:31 est; Date: Mon, 21 Apr 86 12:04:31 est From: Jim Quinlan Message-Id: <8604211704.AA10763@faraday.ECE.CMU.EDU> To: beatty@unh Subject: window leaks... You can buy silicon gel from a hardware or car parts store. Spreading this gel around the seals of your window helps stop rain from coming in. After you spread it, it turns into a clear rubber-like material. Note that some cars will leak no matter what you do or try; late 60's Camaros is one such car. I know, I owned one. -jim Received: from G.CS.CMU.EDU by UNH.CS.CMU.EDU; 21 Apr 86 13:58:23 EST Date: 21 Apr 1986 13:56-EST From: Bruce.Horn@g.cs.cmu.edu To: Derek.Beatty@UNH.CS.CMU.EDU Subject: Re: windshield sealing Message-Id: <514493769/blh@g.cs.cmu.edu> In-Reply-To: Derek.Beatty's bboard message of 21-Apr-86 10:00 Use RTV (the silicone sealant). Putting a bead of the stuff along the outside edge of the windshield where you think the rain is coming in should do the trick. Be sure the area is clean and dry (or as clean and dry as you can make it). Bruce Received: from CAD.CS.CMU.EDU by UNH.CS.CMU.EDU; 21 Apr 86 14:58:59 EST Date: 21 Apr 1986 14:42-EST From: Frank.Pfenning@CAD.CS.CMU.EDU To: Derek.Beatty@UNH.CS.CMU.EDU Subject: Re: windshield sealing Message-Id: <514496560/fp@CAD.CS.CMU.EDU> In-Reply-To: Derek.Beatty's bboard message of 21-Apr-86 09:59 Get some translucent `putty' as used for the sealing off bathtubs. It is easy to put on, works quite well, and is hardly noticable. Make sure to get the translucent variety, though. Received: from A.SEI.CMU.EDU by UNH.CS.CMU.EDU; 21 Apr 86 15:54:53 EST Date: 21 Apr 1986 15:19-EST From: Albert.Johnson@A.SEI.CMU.EDU Subject: Re: windshield sealing To: Derek.Beatty@UNH.CS.CMU.EDU Message-Id: <514498770/alj@A.SEI.CMU.EDU> In-Reply-To: Derek.Beatty@UNH.CS.CMU.EDU's bboard message of 21-Apr-86 10:10 Depending on the year and model, you may be able to get a dealer to fix the problem at a small, or no charge. Phone Ford's area office at 928-2939 (1910 Cochran Road, in the South Hills area of Pittsburgh). That failing, I suggest that you do the following: Get the repair manual for your car from Hunt Library or Carnegie Library of Pittsburgh. Refer to instructions and/or diagrams for removing the metal trim, if any, from around the windshield. This is pretty easy, but if you're not careful you may scratch or nick the glass, or damage the clips that secure the trim. If your windshield is held in with a soft bead of compound, called 'asphalt' or 'beading' by mechanics, you should be able to locate the leak by inspection once you have removed the metal trim. I might add that leaks of this sort usually have external holes some distance from the place the leak shows internally: a leak on the passenger side may actually come from the driver's side, and conversely. This sort of leak is best repaired with DURO Black Rubber compound, available in tubes for around $4 from Beacon Auto Parts in Oakland (visible from Isaly's on the Blvd of the Allies, to the right of Howard Johnson's). If you have a rubber (neoprene) gasket holding the windshield on, use a popsicle stick, tongue depressor or other stiff, blunt instrument to probe the gasket-window and then the car body-window interfaces for leaks. When you find the leak you may fill it with bathtub caulk, or another silicone sealing compound. Use the stick to hold the problem area open, run a bead along the leak, then use the stick to force the caulk into the leak; after the caulk cures, you may trim the excess away with an x-acto or other suitable razor. Be careful, so that you don't cut yourself. In either case, check the car body area for about an inch around the gasket or asphalt bead to assure yourself that the water is not actually coming in through a rust hole. Also check the a-pillars (frontmost pillars) and vent inlet (the area beneath the little grille immediately afront of the windshield) for rust, as water can be forced into those cavities while driving and emerge in the interior looking for all the world like a windshield leak. Hope this gets you out of the jam. Albert Received: from FARADAY.ECE.CMU.EDU by UNH.CS.CMU.EDU; 23 Apr 86 16:26:45 EST Received: by faraday.ECE.CMU.EDU (4.12/4.7) id ; Wed, 23 Apr 86 11:39:03 est; Date: 23 Apr 1986 11:34-EST From: Richard.Cloutier@faraday.ECE.CMU.EDU Subject: Re: windshield sealing To: Derek.Beatty@UNH.CS.CMU.EDU@faraday.ECE.CMU.EDU Message-Id: <514658099/cloutier@faraday> In-Reply-To: Derek.Beatty@UNH CS CMU EDU's bboard message of 21-Apr-86 10:13 I had a lot of luck just using clear bathtub caulk. I just put a little between the window and the rubber gasket with a toothpick. I then put a bead that bridged the edge between the window and gasket, for a few inches either side of where the leak was. I used clear but I suppose you could also use the white stuff. I think that this stuff needs to be applied when the temp is above 70F, read the instructions. rich