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          13 Mar 94 14:03:25 EST
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 94 14:02:49 EST
From: William.Welch@HOSTESS.GRAPHICS.CS.CMU.EDU
To: bovik@cs.cmu.edu
Subject: Antique Engagement Rings

Dear Bovik,

If there was an "engagement ring" category, you might put these notes
there, as my notes are pretty specific. Though the responses to my
post belong in the more general (and also nonexistent)
"estate/antique" jewelry category.

Here's the original post I made:
|> I'm looking for jewelry from the 1920's or thereabouts -- 
|> both costume and nicer stuff. If you've a favorite shop 
|> (or general advice on this kind of hunt), please let me know.
|> 
|> -- Will "I'm not Better AskBovik" Welch

I've been shopping for an engagement ring of this era, and here are some 
random bits, none of it backed by "real" research:

All your settings from this era will be platinum or white gold --
yellow gold's monopoly in the engagement ring market is a recent thing
(they started appearing in the 40's?). I've come around to favoring
the white metals with diamonds because there's such a wide range of
effects which would look cheesy in gold. You'll need to get the
generic solitaire-diamond-in-a-tiffany-mount look out of your head
before these grow on you, though.

I've had no luck at run-of-the-mill jewelry shops which also carry
"estate" jewelry. Of the dedicated antique jewelry shops, I've most
enjoyed "Antiques of Shadyside" on Walnut and "Joy's Antique Jewelry"
in the Clark bldg. "Joy's" has a *much* larger selection of suitable
engagement rings (including a bewildering array of stoneless mounts if
the ready-to-go stuff isn't to your liking). The guy at "Antiques" is
alot of fun to deal with (he complains loudly and colorfully about
various ways to get ripped off while buying jewelry), and will suggest
custom work you might not otherwise have considered. I've shopped for
other things here as well.

For the kinds of rings I'm looking at (in the .4-.5 carat dwt. range),
both shops have comparable, reasonable prices (this was not true of
Kozloff and Meaders, who favor larger carat weights).  Both shops tend
to place VS-2 I-J stones in their mounts, though you can upgrade the
color at a price. If I were buying a modern solitaire I'd want an E-F
color because the mount makes it noticeable (and I'd go to the
Engagement Store in the Clark bldg, whose prices (incl mounting) were
on order of $100-200 less than the several other shops I visited for
VS-F stones.  They'll also take time to walk you through the "4-C's"
diamond lecture). But I've been pleasantly surprised to see that in
the older white metal settings, where high contrast is not the object,
knocking down a few color grades agreeably softens the look of the
piece. It also agreeably softens the price, since you're paying
$100-200 more for the mount than with a simple modern solitaire mount.

The one bit I can't give you is how "hagglable" these places are,
since each has a ring I like and I haven't tried to close. If the
estate auction I recently attended is any indication, their markup is
on the order of 100%-200%, increasing for larger stones. If that
encourages you to aggressively chisel them on the price, great. It's
more likely a useless, inaccurate piece of info.

Here are the responses to my post.

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To: William Welch <claude+@HOSTESS.GRAPHICS.CS.CMU.EDU>
Subject: Re: Estate/Antique Jewelry?
Date: Wed, 9 Mar 94 13:43:37 EST
From: zumel@TRURL.TASKS.CS.CMU.EDU
Sender: zumel@TRURL.TASKS.CS.CMU.EDU

In article <CMCxEx.5A1.1@cs.cmu.edu> you write:
|> I'm looking for jewelry from the 1920's or thereabouts -- 
|> both costume and nicer stuff. If you've a favorite shop 
|> (or general advice on this kind of hunt), please let me know.
|> 
|> -- Will "I'm not Better AskBovik" Welch

My general advice is: marry the child of an antique jewelry dealer :-)...

Barring that, there is a shop on Forbes Ave. in Squill, btwn
Murray and Shady, on the same side of the street as the Coffee Tree
and Siamese Kitchen (I think it's next to that candy shop....); 
I forget its name, but the window says it specializes in 
"estate jewelry and chinoserie", whatever that means. 
Cool stuff in the windows sometimes, and I am told they
have a nice collection of estate jewelry (and Southwestern/Mexican as well)
inside. I've also heard that the quality is uneven, probably contigent
on what rich old biddy croaked that month, and how tasteful she was
about adorning herself.

Antique shops and vintage clothing shops are good places to look.
I seem to remember walking thru -- either "Hey Betty" on Shady,
or that shop underneath Sip -- don't remember which, and noticing
that they had some very nice Art Deco sterling-onyx-and-marcasite type
jewelry scattered in amongst the junk. This is my personal favorite
style of glittery evening jewelry, if only I had someplace to wear it...
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estate/2
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          8 Mar 94 13:15:57 EST
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Date: Tue, 8 Mar 1994 13:03-EST
From: Christian.Lebiere@G.GP.CS.CMU.EDU
To: William Welch <claude+@HOSTESS.GRAPHICS.CS.CMU.EDU>
Subject: Re: Estate/Antique Jewelry?
Message-Id: <763149783/cl@G.GP.CS.CMU.EDU>
In-Reply-To: William Welch's bboard message of 08-Mar-94 12:55

For costume jewelry, you might want to check the local used clothing
stores (eons, etc.).

For the nicer stuff, try Kozloff & Meaders on Ellsworth, a couple
blocks down from eons.  My wife and I got our wedding rings
(multi-faceted gold victorians with engravings) there and they have a
very nice jewelry selection.  Not cheap though, and a little snotty too.

If you have the time and inclination, the best places for bargains are
auctions.  Check the PG for announcements, in particular the Friday
weekend supplement (Antiques section) and the Sunday classified
(Auctions section 484).  My favorite place is Royal York on Baum in
East Liberty, which has auctions every two or three weeks.  The auction
is on Saturday, with the jewelry usually sold toward the end of the
day, around 4pm.  The preview is on Friday.  There is one this weekend.

Christian
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          8 Mar 94 13:17:32 EST
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To: William Welch <claude+@HOSTESS.GRAPHICS.CS.CMU.EDU>
Subject: Re: Estate/Antique Jewelry?
Date: Tue, 08 Mar 94 13:17:07 EST
From: Richard Green <rmg@SEI.CMU.EDU>


In article <CMCxEx.5A1.1@cs.cmu.edu>, you write:
|> I'm looking for jewelry from the 1920's or thereabouts -- 
|> both costume and nicer stuff. If you've a favorite shop 
|> (or general advice on this kind of hunt), please let me know.
|> 
|> -- Will "I'm not Better AskBovik" Welch
|> 

Will,

Try Joy's Antique Jewelry, 2nd Floor, Clark Building on Liberty
Avenue downtown.  Very fine jewelry from early 19th cent through
Victorian and deco, etc.  My wife and I are VERY satisfied customers.

--Rick Green
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          8 Mar 94 19:01:50 EST
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To: claude+@HOSTESS.GRAPHICS.CS.CMU.EDU
Subject: Re: Estate/Antique Jewelry?
Newsgroups: cmu.cs.general
In-Reply-To: <CMCxEx.5A1.1@cs.cmu.edu>
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Cc:   
Bcc:   
Date: Tue, 8 Mar 94 19:00:48 EST
From: hsmoliar@DB1.SPEECH.CS.CMU.EDU
Sender: hsmoliar@DB1.SPEECH.CS.CMU.EDU

In article <CMCxEx.5A1.1@cs.cmu.edu> you write:
>I'm looking for jewelry from the 1920's or thereabouts -- 
>both costume and nicer stuff. If you've a favorite shop 
>(or general advice on this kind of hunt), please let me know.
>
>-- Will "I'm not Better AskBovik" Welch
>
There is a place run by a friend of a friend on Beverly Rd out in Mt. Lebanon.
It is in that one block where the stores are on the right side as you are
going away from Pgh.  If you want me to find out the name, I can.

Harold Smoliar
English horn, Pittsburgh Symphony
Piano, Symphony Jazz Quartet
hsmoliar@db1.speech.cs.cmu.edu

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Date: Tue,  8 Mar 1994 14:16:04 -0500 (EST)
From: "Mitzi E. Morris" <mm7c+@andrew.cmu.edu>
To: William Welch <claude+@HOSTESS.GRAPHICS.CS.CMU.EDU>
Subject: Re: Estate/Antique Jewelry?
In-Reply-To: <CMCxEx.5A1.1@cs.cmu.edu>
References: <CMCxEx.5A1.1@cs.cmu.edu>

I've just started going to estate auctions, and sometimes there
is jewelry there.  the local places are the Royal York Auction
house and Dargate Galleries.  both are having auctions this weekend.
Dargate is on the corner of Highland & Center. viewing is tomorrow
and Thurs. (? - 8 pm)  Royal York is on Baum Blvd. just before it
hits Penn Circle.  previews are Fri 9-4 (or thereabouts).
if you get into estate auctions you might want to follow the
announcements in the paper - Sunday classifieds are good.

good luck,

Mitzi
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Date: Tue, 8 Mar 1994 14:03-EST
From: Mary.Jo.Dowling@IUS5.IUS.CS.CMU.EDU
To: William Welch <claude+@HOSTESS.GRAPHICS.CS.CMU.EDU>
Subject: Re: Estate/Antique Jewelry?
Message-Id: <763153408/mjd@IUS5.IUS.CS.CMU.EDU>
In-Reply-To: William Welch's bboard message of 08-Mar-94 12:55

ANtiques of Shadyside has some nice stuff, they also do good repair
work of antique jewelry. They are right on Walnut street up by
Prantel's Bakery. They best fines are of course at the summer antique
shows around the area. They usually start in April of May.
mj
